How To Make Your Own Custom Clothes Patterns

How to make your own custom clothes patterns. If you don't have the perfectly symmetrical body that clothing patterns are designed for, then this article will help you to alter them so they look custom made.

When you look at someone whose clothes fit perfectly, do you wonder what their secret is? It really isn't a secret, it is knowing how to custom fit patterns so you, too can have clothes that fit perfectly. Perhaps one shoulder is higher than the other, or perhaps one arm is bigger around than the other. Many minor physical differences can be made unnoticeable when your clothing fits.

You can do this in one of two ways, it is your choice depending upon your skill as a seamstress and the amount of time you have.

In the first method, you simply use a lightweight cotton fabric (such as sheeting) cut the pattern out and sew using basting stitches. Alter the garment as needed and then take the basting stitches out and use the altered cloth as a pattern.

In the second method, you first measure yourself, or have a friend help you. Measure both left and right sides of your body, and front and back on the left and right. You will end up with measurements that you can use to draw an accurate picture of yourself.

Use a dressmaker's dummy, or if one is not available, a large piece of paper to draw an accurate rendition of you, down the the inch. Now lay your pattern pieces on the drawing, notice where dart lines, waist measurements, underarm seams, etc., fall. If they don't land where you need them to, then adjust the pattern by adding or taking away. Darts can be moved up down, left and right. Waistlines can be lowered or raised. If the pattern does not fit across you can add a little extra.




Where possible, work from the center of the pattern to help keep the pieces symmetrical. Also remember that any changes to one piece will change any other pieces that attach to the one you changed. So if you change a neckline don't forget to adjust both front and back necklines, and any collars or facings.

After you have adjusted the pattern to fit you, cut out your material and sew it with basting stitches. Try on the garment to insure that the fit is what you want. Make any other adjustments before sewing with finished stitching.

For a more professional, custom made look follow the tips here. When you finish seams, make sure they are straight and even, finish the inside of the garment, attach buttons with several neat stitches. Tack down facings with hand stitches where seams are at the shoulder and the front. Pressing after each seam will insure a more professional look in the finished garment. When you have sewn the last button on, and are finished with the garment, wash it as you would normally, give it a final damp press and it is ready to wear.

Your garment will look as if it were expensively custom tailored to fit you, because it was. As you become more experienced with adjusting patterns you will find it takes the same amount of time as when you just stitched up the pattern as it came. Don't forget to remeasure yourself periodically, since we all change our shapes depending upon season, age etc. Enjoy your new clothing.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Advantages Of A Custom Made Shirt

The handmade shirt has a long history worldwide and its popularity in recent years demonstrates that there is still a wealth of individuals who like the tailored look.
Perhaps they're businessmen who need to make an impression, or they're just people who take pride in what they wear, but no matter what their motivation, the handmade bespoke shirt is here to stay.
However, at times the cost of a tailor made shirts has been well outside the realm of possibility of many men, but in recent years the rise in popularity of the handmade shirt has meant that prices aren't quite so steep, with shirts now available under 75.00 specially with the advent of online custom tailors.
They can go to Savile Row to have their suit measured then take a leisurely stroll around the corner to get the shirt to match. A testament to the importance of the handmade shirt to the modern man is the amount of people who travel from the USA and beyond to get their made-to-measure shirt, year on year.
Quality is a main factor, the many years of experience offered to the creation of a handmade shirt is second to none, the sewing is beautifully accurate - no loose ends and probably the most important factor is that the shirt is comfortable to wear because it's made-to-measure for the individual.

You can choose the fabric, collar and single or double cuff designs so that you can design your perfect mens shirts, which for those that like to look good is perhaps as much a perfect proposition as it is a perfect shirt.
But aside from the perfect fit, perhaps the biggest motivation for getting yourself kitted out in a tailor made shirts is the desire to stand out from the crowd. An off the rack shirt, all be a similar style, fit, and cut. They'll also probably all be from the same shop.
Wouldn't it be nice to be the one man who's wearing a completely original, hand-made shirt that fits like a glove and looks truly amazing? A shirt that skims your shoulders perfectly, with sleeves that fit your arms to the millimetre, and a collar that neither chokes you, or gapes open round the neck, no extra fabric hanging at the back or the torso.
The shirts can be a slim fit, comfortable or loose fit with Spread collar, Full Spread, English Cut Away collar, French Cuffs, Bond Cuffs, White collar and White Cuffs,Tab Collar, Button Down Collar.
So you can see why the bespoke, tailor made shirts still lives on today despite it being an historical trend. It just goes to show that there will always be a market for the man who wants to look his best, and wear clothing that is comfortable, stylish, and completely original.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Elements Of Black Tie Attire

The Elements of Tailor made Black Tie Attire

Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black-tie ensembles can display more variation. In brief, the traditional components are:

* A jacket with ribbed silk facings (usually grosgrain) on a shawl collar or peaked lapel (while a notched lapel is a popular modern choice, it is not traditionally considered correct)
* Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams
* A low-cut waistcoat or Cummerbund
* A white dress shirt with a turn-down collar, shirt studs, and cufflinks (a marcella front is traditional, but other styles are also accepted - a wing collar shirt is acceptable in the US)
* A black ribbed silk bow tie matching the lapel facings (self-tie bow ties are preferred but not necessary)
* Black dress socks, usually silk or fine wool
* Black shoes, highly polished or patent leather Oxfords, or patent leather court shoes

Tuxedo Jacket

The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, ventless, and black or midnight-blue; usually of wool or a wool–mohair blend. Double breasted models are less common, but are equally acceptable. The lapels may be faced with silk in either a grosgrain or less traditional satin weave. Traditionally there are two lapel options, the shawl collar, derived from the smoking jacket, and the peak lapel, from the tailcoat. The former is older, while the latter is considered more formal. A third lapel style, the notched lapel, has only recently gained popularity, and has been accepted by some as "a legitimate ... less formal alternative," although, despite some precedent, it is disdained by purists for its lounge suit derivation. In France, Italy, Brazil, Germany and Spain, the jacket is called smoking. In France the shawl-collared version is le smoking Deauville, while the peaked-lapel version is le smoking Capri.


The double-breasted jacket is slightly more modern than the single-breasted, and less formal; while it was originally considered acceptable only for wear at home (similarly to Prince Albert slippers or a smoking jacket), it is now equally correct in all situations, though traditional rules regarding slightly different selections of accessories may be followed. While more common with a peaked lapel, a shawl lapel is appropriate. All buttons that can be done up, are, including any inner ones which might normally be left undone on a double-breasted lounge suit. While two-button variants are sometimes seen, the traditional single-breasted jacket has a one-button closure.

Trousers

Black tie trousers have no turn-ups (cuffs) or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single silk braid or less traditionally a material that matches the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders) hold up the trousers; they are hidden by the waistcoat (if worn) or by the coat. The trousers traditionally feature a pleated front, flat-front trousers being a modern innovation in this context.

Waistcoat or cummerbund

The waist is dressed in either a waistcoat (aka Vest) or a cummerbund when wearing a single-breasted coat. The waistcoat should be low-cut; traditional models may be of either the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape and may be backless or fully backed, double or single breasted, and should have shawl lapels. Single breasted styles should have no more than three buttons, and double no more than three rows.

Tuxedo Shirt

The shirt is conventionally white or off-white (cotton or linen) with a turn down collar. Its front is usually traditional marcella but can be pleated, plain, or more rarely a stiff front (as with white tie).


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Fashion Rule

Every man has asked themselves about matching their socks with their trousers and other assorted questions at some point in their lives. Here I have listed three important men's fashion rules to live by.

1. Always match your belt with your shoes. This is a good rule to follow and it keeps things simple. It's best to stay with traditional colors such a black, dark brown or a rich tan. Other colors will be difficult to match, and generally speaking, should be avoided. If you wear sneakers every day that probably means you are wearing jeans in which case I suggest trying a belt made of fabric or something equally as casual, but please avoid dress belts with jeans and sneakers. If you wear suspenders, I am compelled to ask you why, but I digress. Just don't wear a belt and suspenders together, it's one or the other.

2. Matching Ties and Shirts. For while the solid-colored shirt with a tie of the same (or slightly-off) color was seen everywhere. This is now a somewhat dated look. Try mixing things up a little and experiment with colors. Ties are great way to express yourself, but keeping it tasteful is your best bet. You can't go wrong with diagonal stripes, modern polka-dots, plaids and subtle patterns. Just make sure your tie compliments your shirt, suit, sweater or what ever you will be wearing it with. Novelty ties are best avoided since the novelty is short lived.


Note: Ties should be tied in whatever style most strikes your fancy. You should know that there are many different ways to knot your tie, and different knots say different things. I prefer the Windsor or the four-in-hand, but I do suggest that you explore a little just for kicks. As for clip on ties--just say no.

3 . Pleats vs. Flat-Front. Why so many men have avoided flat-front trousers has always been a mystery to me. Flat-front trousers look better than pleated pants, at least most of the time. Plus pleats make you look less slim. I have heard guys wear pleats because it’s more comfortable or because flat-fronts are more for athletic bodies. Truth is most men can wear a flat-front trouser. If you want more room then buy them a little big and have them brought in at the waist. This can be done at the store where you buy your clothes or by an independent tailor. And lastly, flat-font trousers are much more fashionable.
Flat-front trousers look better than pleated pants, at least most of the time. Plus pleats make you look less slim.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Mens Dress Shirts

See How A Simple Men's Shirt Can Enhance Your Look, Personality And Appearance In An Instant

Ask a man this simple question. What can enhance your look, personality and appearance in a matter of moments?

Some may find it difficult to say? The answer is a quality shirt. Shirts can help to reorganize the way you look. A Shirt is comfortable and can be cool, fashionable, elegant and stylish. It symbolizes freedom, comfort and individuality of that concerned person. You can wear them for casual, wedding, dinner, business, travelling, all seasons, and anytime and for any purpose.

While selecting a shirt you need to take notes on fashion, coordination that matches your skin and hair color. Imagine a light haired man with fair colored skin tone, in a pure white shirt. The pure white shirt cannot do a thing to enhance his appearance. Shirts come in different fabrics and textures generally to fit you well as well as being versatile, and more economical too.

Shirts are the easiest way for you to reflect your personal style. They are not only for style, but also it is a cover to partly safeguard and protect your skin from the hot sun, dust and cold. Plenty of fabrics like cotton, poplin, linen and wool in different textures, and blended varieties are available.

Cotton garments are durable and very comfortable to wear. Some choices like 60%, 80% cotton blended with other fabrics is suitable for some, while 100% cotton is preferred by many. The different types of cotton shirts are Casual Wear cotton shirts, Mens dress shirt, Polo shirt; knitted cotton wears, cotton T shirts etc.

Linen is epitomized as luxury. The coolness, strength and brilliance is most often found in linen compared to cotton. Linen is woven into fabrics. It is durable, strong and resists rotting in wet climates.

There are endless impressive displays of shirt styles and designs to choose from. Versatile styles of men?s shirts remain as the formal shirt casual shirt tailored shirt slim fit shirt, evening , business, cuffed shirt, long sleeve, short sleeve and summer shirt. Thousands of stripes, patterns, colors, and

a wide variety of crisp white shirt fabrics are also available.

Choose double cuffs or button cuffs. Renowned designers never miss to add this type to their catalog. For grand occasions wear a double cuff shirt with Cuff links or cuff fabric knots etc. This button cuffed shirt should suit any perfect evening wear.

We all know very well the collar shape is controlled by the neckline. A broader face with a thick neck and tiny collar will look imbalanced. Likewise a shirt with long points may drown a small man with different features. You have to choose your collar, standard collar Cut Away Collar, Button down Collar and wing collars are available.

Some of the world's most renowned and followed brands are said to be The Russell Collection, Patagonia cotton, American Apparel Brand Lion Brand to name a few. These brands have established themselves strongly and you can pick your favorite, without thinking about quality and other particulars.

Benefits Of Online Purchase:

Is it possible to search all the brands and collections in a retail shop? Your shirt purchase is easy with just a click here. Sure, in this world all things are possible! The most inexpensive way to shop for shirts is online. What can you get online? You can avoid stepping into all those stores to find
the shirt of your taste, plus you can save time and escape from roaming tirelessly. Not only that, when compared to the traditional shopping system the price will be cheaper, because online shoppers do not include show room maintenance charges, extra advertisement charges etc.

Moreover large volumes of versatile fabrics, styles, designs, colors and sizes can be viewed by sitting in your own living room, and can get clarified immediately by email or over the phone to make your order. The online purchase is safer for money handling. You need not go to the bank to draw out your money. You can buy with your Master, Visa, Discover, American Express etc, Debit cards are also accepted. So why delay? Start browsing, to select the right shirt and enjoy the benefits.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Contrast & Seasons On Color Selection

The first thing a person notices about a dress shirt is its color. In a crowded room of suits, your choice of shirt colors will either help you stand out or blend in; the key here is what are your intentions and do you know how to mix and match your clothing in order to fulfill them. The only way to do this is to gain mastery in understanding 1) what color shades compliment you and 2) how those same colors frame you in your environment. The goal of this article is to help you to begin to understand both.

The Role of your Complexion, Hair, and Eye Color

A man's complexion, hair color, and eye color are the key indicators he should use when selecting the color of a fabric which will cover his body. Unfortunately, most men make their color decision based on what they have worn in the past, what colors are readily available, and the ever-changing winds of fashion. The result is what you see today, a sea of solid white and blue shirts. The two most important factors in selecting shirt color are a man's skin tone and hair color. Eye color is a wild-card factor; in the cases where eye color strongly contrasts a man's complexion and hair color, it can be used to introduce colors that would otherwise have not compliment an individual. It is the relationship between these three factors that determines what contrast category a man falls into: either High, Low, or Medium Contrast

High Contrast Men

Put simply, these are men whose hair color is a stark contrast to their skin tone; black hair with white skin is a perfect example. For high contrast men, the key to looking good is to be able to mimic this color difference in their clothing with the contrast in their facial zone. A dark navy suit with a white shirt and a charcoal suit with an ice blue shirt are two combinations that compliment high contrast men. In general, light colored shirts with dark suits and dark/vibrant ties with light colored suits. Dark shirts with light suits can be accomplished, but pulling this off requires skill. High contrast men are always complimented by strong ties that stand out from the shirt.

Low Contrast Men

As the name suggests, these are men with a muted appearance. Light hair and light skin is the most common variant, but men with red hair, bald men, and men with little hair also fall into this category. The strengths of these men are the exact opposite of the high contrast men above. Low contrast men should seek a monochromatic look, as that a strong contrasting outfit will easily overpower their muted tones. Remember the purpose of a frame (your clothing) is to enhance the picture (your face). In general, low contrast men fair well with dark blues and earth tone dress shirts combined with dark suits. When wearing light gray or tan suits, the low contrast gentlemen needs to stay with lighter colored shirts and earth tones; white is permissible here if the suit is light enough to avoid a stark contrast. Be careful in your choice of tie, if the neck-wear stands out too much it can draw attention from your face to your chest and stomach.


Medium Contrast Men

If you don't fall into one of the two extremes, you most likely fit into this group. Brown skinned men with dark hair are common members, along with lighter skinned men and with gray and white hair. With such a wide selection of facial tones and hair colors, it's hard to give specific guidance in this category. What we will say is that most men do not fit exactly in the middle; instead they lean towards either low or high contrast. The afore mentioned dark haired men with brown skin; they lean towards the high contrast, and can not only utilize that man's color combinations but they can get away with a few subtle monochromatic combinations. The same with the light skinned gentlemen with gray hair. He is more similar to the low contrast individual, and would do well to follow the rules set forth for that man. However, he can very successfully pull off a contrasting outfit, especially if his eyes or another feature compliment the color combination chosen. To sum it up, medium contrast men can enjoy the best of both worlds, but should be careful when venturing too far in one direction.

The Role of Seasons

It should be mentioned that although your natural colors are the dominant factors in determining what color clothing you should wear, they are not the only things you should pay attention to. A dandy also gives attention to the seasons, paying heed to the effect the colors around him have on the ensemble he has put together. The dark suit and dark colored shirt you decide to wear may look magnificent on you, but at a summer wedding you'll find yourself not only hot under the collar but sticking out like a sore thumb. Let's take a quick look at the seasons and the shades of color they invoke.

Spring

The season of re-birth, it's here that we pinks, lavenders, and lighter shades of blue. Lighter weight fabrics are dusted off from their winter sleep, and a man would speak well of himself to wear multi-colored checks and stripes that compliment him.

Summer

A time when light and bold colors dominate the scene. Gold striped shirts, red checks, and of course a wide variety of blue solids and patterns should grace the wardrobe of the well dressed man. 100% cottons, linens, and silks are popular fabric choices because of their wicking qualities.

Fall
Earth Tones and heavier fabrics begin to make their appearance. Clothing tends to take on a somber appearance with the onset of cooler weather, and now with the weather getting cooler is a good time to wear blends. Their heat retention qualities are good on an cold evening you are caught without an overcoat.

Winter

Dark colors and heavy fabric such as flannels make their appearance. You can enliven your wardrobe a bit with a pink or maize oxford, but winter is the season you want to get your money's worth from the fabrics designed to keep you warm. Forest green and brown tones are a stable during this season.

It's important to remember that confidence in ones appearance is vital to looking great. When people look at you a tad longer than usual, you need to have the confidence in your outfit to know that it's because you look that good (as opposed to looking that bad!). Our advice is to have the courage to know yourself, and from that knowledge choose the colors that best compliments you as an individual.


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

Shirt fabrics or "Shirtings", as they are called by those in the industry, come in a wide variety of weave types. They are made from a range of fibers, with cotton being the most common. Most fabric names refer to the particular method in which it underlying fibers were woven. We won't go into it here, but be aware that the thickness and characteristics of the cotton fiber (shape, cleanliness, length) come into play when determining the quality and function of the total product.

Oxford Fabric

Oxford cloth is the coarsest shirting; it is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A casual fabric, it is naturally found on the button-down collar shirt, but in the US is perfectly acceptable for most business occasions. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts only the threads running in one direction are dyed, with the other threads being left white. This gives it a basket-weave, meaning the fabric's warp and weft threads cross each other in pairs. It has a characteristic textured appearance (which lends to its casual feel). Pinpoint oxford is woven likewise but of finer yarn and is smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still and can blend seamlessly with a fine wool suit and expensive tie.

Poplin Fabric

Poplin bears a smoother texture than oxford, but similar weight. This is the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it. Poplin shirt fabric is soft and comfortable and often used in casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.


Twill Fabric

Cotton twill has a shimmery diagonal weave and makes for richly textured shirts that can still be considered professional wear. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch, giving the fabric more depth. When the occasion calls for a out of the ordinary solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache by creating texture and an up close display of detail.

Broadcloth Fabric

Broadcloth shirt fabric is a weave is very similar to broadcloth except more densely packed, is one of the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away. Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.

End-on-End Fabrics

A plain one-on-one weave, this fabric traditionally uses white with another color to create a subtle check effect and texture. Occasionally, two colors are used to create a "double shot" of color. The liberal use of pattern and the eye catching weave peg this fabric as casual wear, but with the right collar and tie this fabric weave could find itself in even the most conservative banker's closet.

Formal Shirt Fabrics

Formal shirts are made of white piqué cotton, which boasts a rich, woven texture. This is the only shirt proper for black tie or white tie, and it is not appropriate for anything else. You will know this fabric by the fineness of its weave, lack of visible pattern, and smoothness of its feel.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Men Dress Shirts

Shirt fabrics or "Shirtings", as they are called by those in the industry, come in a wide variety of weave types. They are made from a range of fibers, with cotton being the most common. Most fabric names refer to the particular method in which it underlying fibers were woven. We won't go into it here, but be aware that the thickness and characteristics of the cotton fiber (shape, cleanliness, length) come into play when determining the quality and function of the total product.

Oxford Fabric

Oxford cloth is the coarsest shirting; it is nonetheless quite soft and comfortable. A casual fabric, it is naturally found on the button-down collar shirt, but in the US is perfectly acceptable for most business occasions. In colored and patterned Oxford shirts only the threads running in one direction are dyed, with the other threads being left white. This gives it a basket-weave, meaning the fabric's warp and weft threads cross each other in pairs. It has a characteristic textured appearance (which lends to its casual feel). Pinpoint oxford is woven likewise but of finer yarn and is smoother and more formal. Royal Oxford is finer still and can blend seamlessly with a fine wool suit and expensive tie.

Poplin Fabric

Poplin bears a smoother texture than oxford, but similar weight. This is the result of a fine yarn running one way with a thicker one interweaving it. Poplin shirt fabric is soft and comfortable and often used in casual shirts. Colors find themselves easily at home here, and it takes sporty patterns especially well.


Twill Fabric

Cotton twill has a shimmery diagonal weave and makes for richly textured shirts that can still be considered professional wear. In herringbone twill, the direction of the diagonals switches back and forth every quarter inch, giving the fabric more depth. When the occasion calls for a out of the ordinary solid shirt, twill plays the role with panache by creating texture and an up close display of detail.

Broadcloth Fabric

Broadcloth shirt fabric is a weave is very similar to broadcloth except more densely packed, is one of the most formal shirting for day-to-day wear. End-on-end broadcloth is that made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from an arm's length away. Thanks to its tight weave, this cloth displays patterns with exquisite precision.

End-on-End Fabrics

A plain one-on-one weave, this fabric traditionally uses white with another color to create a subtle check effect and texture. Occasionally, two colors are used to create a "double shot" of color. The liberal use of pattern and the eye catching weave peg this fabric as casual wear, but with the right collar and tie this fabric weave could find itself in even the most conservative banker's closet.

Formal Shirt Fabrics

Formal shirts are made of white piqué cotton, which boasts a rich, woven texture. This is the only shirt proper for black tie or white tie, and it is not appropriate for anything else. You will know this fabric by the fineness of its weave, lack of visible pattern, and smoothness of its feel.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Business Casual

In the European tradition, casual is the dress code which emphasizes comfort and personal expression over presentation and uniformity. It includes a very wide variety of costume,
Casual wear is typically the dress code in which new forms of gender expression are attempted before being accepted into semi-casual or semi-formal situations.

The term casual describes a wide variety of clothing, ranging from smart casual to active attire.

Smart Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events, everyday wear

Smart casual usually consists of a blazer or a sports jacket a collared shirt, and dress trousers. A necktie is increasingly optional. Although suits technically fall into the informal category, so are casual enough to be considered smart casual instead. Smart casual footwear includes shoes and loafers, but not sneakers (trainers), or men's sandals.

Business Casual

Typical events: Business purposes, church events,


Business Casual is among the most fluid and varied of dress codes,
Generally speaking, ties are not worn with business casual. Most codes require that a collared shirt be worn,Dress pants or cotton twills such as chinos (khakis) are acceptable, but jeans often are not. Sports jackets are optional. Again, while loafers and other casual shoes are acceptable, sneakers and men's sandals are not. Business casual is now acceptable in some business situations and industries, but not all.

Business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed yet neat and pulled together.

For women: A reasonable length skirt (not mini-skirt) or full-length pants of a non-jeans material combined with a sleeved top (such as a dress shirt, polo, or sweater set) is considered acceptable. An informal dress with sleeves and appropriate skirt length is also acceptable.

For men: A combination of collared shirt (such as a dress shirt or polo shirt), cotton trousers (such as khakis), or tennis shirt with a belt, and shoes (such as loafers) with socks is generally acceptable

Unacceptable for either gender: sleeveless shirts, gym clothes, rumpled or ripped clothing, (micro) miniskirts, underwear as outerwear, bizarre hair color or styles, inappropriately revealing attire such as bare midriffs, and flip-flops.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com